Frequently Asked Questions
Exosomes
What are exosomes?
Exosomes are tiny vesicles that cells release to carry messages to other cells. The ones we use are derived from plants and are rich in growth factors, peptides and antioxidants. Applied to the skin after microneedling, they help calm inflammation, support repair and encourage your skin to produce new collagen.
Are exosomes injected?
No. At DermZen Clinic exosomes are applied to the surface of your skin immediately after microneedling, so they absorb through the micro-channels while they are still open. We do not inject them, and nor should any other UK clinic. In the UK, injectable exosomes are treated as unlicensed medicines and are not approved for cosmetic use. If a clinic offers to inject exosomes, that is not a lawful treatment here.
Where do your exosomes come from?
We use plant-derived exosomes intended for topical cosmetic use. Exosomes derived from human cells are not approved for cosmetic use in the UK, and we do not use them.
How are exosomes different from polynucleotides or skin boosters?
Polynucleotides and skin boosters such as Profhilo are injected into the skin and work mainly on hydration, firmness and repair from within. Exosomes are applied to the surface after microneedling, and their strength is in calming the skin and supporting recovery while amplifying the collagen response that microneedling creates. They work well alongside each other rather than instead of each other.
Which areas can be treated?
We treat the face, neck and décolletage. We will agree the areas with you at your consultation.
Am I suitable for exosome treatment?
Exosomes suit most skin types and tones, and are a particularly good option if your skin is sensitive, reactive, scarred or slow to settle after treatment. They are not suitable if you:
Are pregnant or breastfeeding
Have an active skin infection, cold sore or acne flare in the treatment area
Have a known allergy to any ingredient in the product
Have a history of keloid scarring
Have taken isotretinoin (Roaccutane) in the last 6 months
Are unwell, or have an uncontrolled medical condition
If you have an autoimmune condition, take blood-thinning medication, or have eczema or psoriasis in the treatment area, we will discuss whether treatment is appropriate during your consultation.
How many treatments will I need?
We recommend a course of 3 sessions, 2 to 4 weeks apart. Exosomes can also be added to an existing course of microneedling. To maintain your results we suggest a session every 6 to 12 months.
How do I prepare for my appointment?
Stop retinol, acids and other active skincare on the area 5 to 7 days beforehand
Avoid sunbathing, sunbeds and fake tan for 2 weeks beforehand
Arrive with clean skin and no make-up if possible
If you are prone to cold sores, tell us in advance so we can advise you
If you are unwell on the day, please contact us to reschedule
Avoid booking within 2 weeks of an important social event or holiday
What happens during an appointment?
We will go through your medical history form and assess your skin to decide whether treatment is right for you. We will explain the benefits, risks, side effects and costs so you can make an informed decision. Once you have consented, we take pre-treatment photographs and cleanse your skin. Numbing cream is applied for about 20 minutes, then microneedling is carried out across the treatment area. The exosome serum is applied straight afterwards, and we finish with a calming mask or SPF.
Does it hurt?
Most clients find it very manageable. Numbing cream is applied first, and microneedling usually feels like a light vibration or prickling. The exosome serum itself is soothing and often feels cool on the skin.
How long does the treatment take?
Your appointment usually lasts 60 to 75 minutes, including time for the numbing cream to work.
When will I see results and how long do they last?
Your skin should look calmer and brighter within a few days. Because the treatment works by stimulating your own collagen, firmness and texture continue to improve over 6 to 12 weeks, building with each session in your course. Results vary from person to person, and are maintained with repeat sessions and good skincare.**
**Results depend on factors such as your age, skin condition, lifestyle, smoking and sun exposure.
What is the downtime?
Expect 24 to 48 hours of redness, rather like mild sunburn, sometimes with slight swelling, tightness or dryness. Many clients find their skin settles a little faster than with microneedling alone. You can usually return to work the next day, and make-up can be worn after 24 hours.
Are there any side effects or risks?
Common, short-lived effects include redness, mild swelling, tightness, dryness and light flaking for a few days. Less commonly you may get small spots, milia or pinpoint bruising. Rarer risks include infection, a cold sore flare if you are prone to them, an allergic reaction to the product, and temporary darkening of the skin (post-inflammatory pigmentation), which is more likely in deeper skin tones and is why aftercare and daily SPF matter. We will discuss all of these with you at your consultation.
Are exosomes suitable for darker skin tones?
Yes. Exosomes are suitable for all skin types and tones. Microneedling itself carries a small risk of temporary pigmentation changes in deeper skin tones, so we treat conservatively, prepare your skin properly and ask you to use SPF 50 daily afterwards.
Can exosomes be combined with other treatments?
Yes. Exosomes are given with microneedling as standard, and the course can sit alongside polynucleotides, skin boosters, anti-wrinkle injections or a course of peels. We will plan the order and timing with you so each treatment works at its best.
Is there any evidence behind exosomes?
Exosomes are a newer area of skincare and the research is still developing. Early laboratory and clinical work is promising, particularly for calming inflammation and supporting healing, but the long-term evidence is not yet as established as it is for treatments such as microneedling or hyaluronic acid. We will be honest with you about what the treatment can and cannot do, and we avoid the dramatic percentage claims you may see elsewhere.
How much does it cost?
Exosome treatment, including microneedling, costs £350 per session, or £950 for a course of 3 sessions. See our full price list.
How do I care for my skin afterwards?
Do not touch your face for 6 hours, and wash your hands before you do
Avoid make-up for 24 hours
Avoid strenuous exercise, saunas, steam rooms and hot baths for 48 hours
Avoid retinol, acids and other active skincare for 5 to 7 days
Use a gentle cleanser and a simple moisturiser
Apply SPF 50 every day and avoid direct sun
Do not pick or scratch any flaking skin
Contact us as soon as possible if you experience any unexpected side effects
